Don't Sleep On This: The Simple Vintage Rolex Datejust in Steel

By Eric Wind

When I first became interested in vintage watches, the Rolex Datejust was not particularly exciting to me. My eyes gravitated towards the Rolex sports models, such as the Submariner, Daytona, GMT-Master, and the Explorer I, whereas the Datejust seemed like it was old-fashioned - and not in a good way. As time has gone by, my appreciation and love for the Rolex Datejust has grown significantly. I’m constantly amazed by the quality and differentiations of the dials that Rolex used in vintage Datejusts over the decades. I have found the Rolex Datejust to be one of the most versatile watches a person can have. Whether you’re opting for the reference 1601 with a steel case and fluted white-gold bezel or the reference 1603 with the engine-turned steel bezel, they are watches which can be worn at the beach or pool, or even selectively with a tuxedo. The Rolex Datejust is certainly worthy of being in the running as the perfect one-watch collection.

Rolex Lavender Dial Datejust reference 1601 dating to circa 1971.

Rolex Datejust "Linen Dial" reference 16014 dating to circa 1982.

This appreciation has also been shared by others that I have known who inherited their Datejust or have been given them at moments such as their 18th birthday or college graduation. Sometimes these people will relay to me that their initial reaction was, “This is cool, but I wish it was a Submariner.” However, with time, these individuals have often realized how much they grew to love the understated nature of the Datejust and, value aside, were happier to have a Datejust than a Rolex sports model, which they could go out and purchase at any time in the future. The Datejust, in an odd way, seems a more personal remembrance of someone given the endless variety of options between dials, bezels, and bracelets.

Eric’s personal Rolex Datejust reference 1603 with blue “Mosaic” or “Shantung” dial.

The Datejust is special both because of its innovation being one of the first automatic watches with a date complication, but also due to the fact Rolex has always committed to offering the Datejust as one of the pillars of their company. Their pride in this watch is evident in the fact that every Datejust ever sold has been a certified chronometer, whereas many Submariners (such as the reference 5513) were not chronometer certified.

Photograph by James Fisk. See more in the previous article ‘James Fisk Visits Palm Beach (Part 2)’.

I personally prefer the Datejust to the Day-Date because of its simpler dial. I don’t need to read the day of the week at 12 o’clock. I also prefer my watches in steel rather than precious metals. I personally own a vintage Datejust reference 1603 that I acquired about a year ago. However, this particular blue “Mosaic” or “Shantung” dial is likely my “forever Datejust.” My dial has aged remarkably over the years now resembling vintage denim, but with a glossy texture and metallic hues. Mosaic dials and Confetti dials are among my favorite dials ever made by Rolex. Both were manufactured by Beyeler when you view the maker’s name on the case back. The Confetti dials are one of the classic “look closer” dials because if you look under a loupe what appears from 6-12 inches away to be a pure matte-black dial reveal a plethora of reds and greens! It is as if you are looking inside an opal.

Rolex Datejust reference 1601 with “Confetti” dial.

Datejusts are extremely undervalued and generally far less expensive than a brand new Datejust in steel at retail today. These cost approximately $7,700 (with steel bezel) and $9,000 (with a white gold bezel) and you can get a vintage Datejust for as little as $4,000 to a bit more if you are looking for a rare dial variant, retailer signature (such as Tiffany & Co.), and/or unpolished case. Over the years, I have helped a number of watch enthusiasts buy their first Rolex and many times these have been Datejusts. Sometimes these individuals have not had the budget to purchase a Submariner or more expensive pieces, but want to mark an important occasion such as a wedding or important work accomplishment. These individuals were in some sense lucky that their budget limited them because I think a vintage Datejust in steel is just about the coolest Rolex you can buy.

Photograph by James Fisk. See more in the previous article ‘James Fisk Visits Palm Beach (Part 1)’.

Rolex Datejust Reference 16014 circa 1985.

An unpolished Rolex Tiffany & Co. Datejust reference 16220 dating to circa 1991.

Rolex Datejust reference 1603 with creamy dial dating to circa 1985

Rolex “Wide Boy” Datejust reference 1601 dating to circa 1972

NOS Rolex Datejust “Tapestry Dial” reference 16200 dating to circa 1997 with box and papers.

Listen to Eric narrate this article off the top of his head below!