The Best Vintage Chronographs According to Gavin Galiardo

By Gavin Galiardo

If you are passionate about collecting vintage watches, chronographs are a category that cannot be overlooked. You’re either a chronograph person, or you’re not. And if you’re not a chronograph enthusiast, you still respect them! For me, the chronograph is my personal favorite complication and easily the most practical. It is pure functionality. Below are five chronographs [in no particular order] that I consider to be the most important models ever produced.

5) The OMEGA Speedmaster

Perhaps the most iconic and historically important chronograph is the Speedmaster. I have always loved the Speedy for their extreme legibility and unique charm. Many of the vintage Speedsters will take on a unique look over time, whether that is from the dial or luminous material turning tropical, or a weathered bezel. They do not have to be perfect to be gorgeous watches.

I always appreciated the Speedmaster as deviation from the Daytona. Like it or not, the Dayton is now associated with status. In many ways the Speedmaster is more rugged and sporty and worn on the wrists of the ambitious. I’ve always been drawn to the original racing history of these watches, particularly upon their release in the late 1950’s, but of course their most notable claim to fame is the Speedmaster’s selection by NASA for space exploration. The Speedmaster still is and always will be a tool watch. As of April 2026, we are possibly in one of the best eras to collect Speedmasters given their tragic decline in market value.

4) Breitling Navitimer

While most chronographs were born with automotive racing heritage. The renowned chronograph specialist Breitling carries the flag for aviation watches in this category. Likely the most recognizable and historically important in their lineup is the Breitling Navitimer. The Navitimer was originally released in circa 1952 and is one of the most recognized wristwatches ever produced. The large dimensions and classic aesthetic has made it an icon. The Navitimer served as an oversized pilot’s watch with the unmistakable rotating slide rule for in-flight calculations. The first ever Breitling reference is the 806 (pictured above) is imortalized as a collector favorite.

3) Heuer Monaco

First release in 1969, the Heuer Monaco is a pioneer in the world of racing chronographs. It is powered by the legendary Calibre 11, a movement in contention for the title of first automatic chronograph. The Monaco is a bit of a deviation from most chronographs and the only square-cased watch on this list. However, this design makes it one of the most distinguished chronographs ever produced. The initial reference 1133B feature a 40mm by 40mm case, and nine o’clock date window for extreme legibility and ease of use. This is massive! With Heuer’s already established legacy in the world of motor racing, the Monaco was furhter immortalized on Steve McQueen’s wrist in the film Le Mans.

2) Zenith El Primero

The Zenith El Primero derives its name from the El Primero 3019 PHC movement, and its claim to fame as the first automatic chronograph movement. Although there is still some debate in certain circles as the the exact first Automatic chronograph, the sister reference A384, A385, A386 are widely considered the first to market. Its nickname "Covergirl" originates from its feature on the cover of the Zenith book by Manfred Rössler. Like the Monaco, this aggressive case design, coupled with a unique “ladder” bracelet, make for a unique watch that stands out from the rest!

1) The Rolex Daytona

It’s no surprise that the Rolex Daytona is on this list and for good reason. Plain and simple, the Daytona is a tried and true sports watch, from the leading name in watchmaking! They Daytona is also an aspirational marker of success and prestige for so many. Arguably the most desirable watch, from the most recognized watchmaker, the Rolex Daytona doesn’t really need an introduction. There are many configurations of the Daytona. Whether you pursue the automatic Zenith Daytonas, or the four-digit manual wind references, you cannot go wrong! My personal grail is the Floating “Big Red” Daytona reference 6265 with black dial. I love the screw down pushers and engraved bezel.

charlie dunne