What's Selling Here - May 9th, 2025
By Charlie Dunne
LeCoultre Deep Sea Alarm Reference E 857 Unpolished on Bracelet
The LeCoultre Deep Sea Alarm Automatic reference E 857 is one of the most exciting vintage dive watches. These cases were made by Huguenin Frères and powered by the automatic alarm Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 815. This example has a super attractive dial. The lume, dial and disc are original and unaltered. The case appears to be unpolished and in amazing condition. This is one of my favorite watches available on the market, and an epic alternative diver. The bezel insert is original. It is paired on an incredibly rare “Nautilus” JLC bracelet that Eric has had on ice for many years. This is a grail dive watch and one of the nicest DSA models I have held. Examples of this reference have sold for $100k at auction. Kudos to the next owner!
The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.
Longines 13ZN Chronograph Reference 4974 w/ Gilt Dial Unpolished w/ Extract
To many passionate vintage watch enthusiasts, the Longines chronograph 13ZN is among the most special vintage chronograph watch. These models are historically significant bi-register chronographs introduced in the mid-1930s.
This Longines reference 4974 is a very special chronograph with the iconic 13ZN calibre. It features a beautiful gilt dial with very sharp gold numerals and font. The dial and hand set are non-luminous. The case measures 37mm in diameter. The watch is a Tre Tacche (three notches on the caseback) and is one of the early water-resistant chrongraphs with screw-back cases. Furthermore, these case designs are highly admired by collectors for their stepped bezel and monoblocco case. This example is in great condition. The case appears to be unpolished.
There are approximately 70 examples of the reference 4974 known by the collecting community.
This watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. The watch comes with an Extract from The Archives stating “This chronograph was invoiced on 14 March 1942 to the company Weil, which was at that time our agent for Chile”. It is paired on an incredible stretch Rivet Gay Freres bracelet dating to circa 1955.
For those looking for a vintage chronograph, this is certainly one of the most interesting and amazing options to look towards. Vintage Longines chrongraphs are among the finest quality wristwatches of the 1930s-1940s, and to find an amazing example in steel is not an easy task!
OMEGA Tropical Speedmaster Reference 2998-1 w/ Extract Unpolished w/ Box
The OMEGA Speedmaster is certainly one of the most iconic watches with a truly rich history of exploration and sport. This is a super attractive reference 2998-1 which features a gorgeous tropical dial. It is one of the most attractive 2998-1 examples I have ever seen. It features the original Naiad crown.
The case appears to be unpolished. The original black “Base 1000” aluminum bezel which has some wear but is ultimately very attractive.
It includes an Extract of Archives from OMEGA. It includes an original box worth as much as $15,000 by itself.
This watch does not include box and papers, has a manual-wind movement (Caliber 321 made by Lemania), and is 39.5mm in diameter. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.
To learn more about the OMEGA Speedmaster, you can read my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The OMEGA Speedmaster’ article and corresponding video with HODINKEE.
Audemars Piguet Reference 5072ST
The time-only vintage Audemars Piguet watches with VZSS movements based upon a Valjoux ebauche are some of the most beautiful and desirable time-only watches ever made. Among those models, the 5072 is arguably the most desirable because of the large size and water-resistant case with antimagnetic dust cover.
For the reference 5072s, most are in yellow gold (BA) and a few are in rose gold, but only a mythical few are known in steel (ST). In fact, far fewer than 10 are known to the market in steel. The cases were made by Charles-Rodolphe Spillman (C.R.Spillman). Spillman also made cases for Universal Geneve chronographs that are extremely desirable, early Rolex Oyster cases, and later made the Rolex Daytona cases for the 1960s to the 1980s. In addition, CRS made cases for OMEGA Speedmasters in the 1980s and it is regarded as one of the finest case makers in the world.
This example features the very narrow Audemars Piguet font and makes the dial appear much larger. It is powered by the incredible VZSSC movement.
The watch dates to circa 1955. The case measures 37mm and is fitted to a 19mm strap, a common size for the Spillmann cases. The case is possibly unpolished. The crown appears to be original. This is a rare opportunity to get a beautiful Audemars Piguet reference 5072 in steel.
It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.
Cartier Tank Cintrée in 18K Yellow Gold Unpolished
The Cartier Tank Cintrée is one of my favorite Cartier models. The cases are very well made and among the most beautiful styles from the manufacturer.
These models have grown to become highly collectible over recent years. This example dates to circa 1960s. It features an 18K yellow gold case. The case appears to be unpolished.
The case measures 20mm in diameter and 36mm in length. The dial is very nice and without any signs of wear or crazing. Often, these have crazing.
The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It comes a deployant buckle and black strap.
To learn more about the spectacular watches from Cartier, read our article My Dream Cartier Collection.
Rolex Submariner Meters First Reference 5513 Unpolished
This Rolex Submariner reference 5513 is an outstanding example with attractive lume. The watch has a 1.76M serial dating to circa 1968. It features the original bezel insert. The case appears to be unpolished. It is paired on an exceptional C&I bracelet dating to 1968 which appears to be original to the watch.
Learn more about the iconic Submariner within Charlie Dunne’s comprehensive article “Collector’s Guide: Understanding The Rolex Submariner Reference 5512’.
To learn more about the Rolex Submariner, you can read my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner’ article and corresponding video.
This watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running great! It recently passed a water resistance test of 1 bar.
For those looking for an amazing Rolex Submariner 5513, this is a serious example.
TUDOR Ranger Reference 9050/0 Unpolished
This TUDOR Ranger 9050/0 is an incredible model with great lume. The case appears to be unpolished. It features a 874,XXX serial dating to circa 1977. The watch is paired on a Rolex Oyster Rivet bracelet with straight end links dating to circa 1969. It features a non-Cyclops crystal which makes it more similar to a vintage Explorer. The case measures 34mm in diameter.
It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history. It is running well and keeping good time.
TUDOR Ranger Reference 90020 Unpolished
This TUDOR Ranger 90020 is a “Holy Grail” TUDOR Ranger that is manual wind and a unique reference for the Ranger. The reference 90020 only shows OYSTER on the dial whereas its counterpart reference 90220 was automatic. The case appears to be unpolished. The case measures 34mm in diameter.
The watch is paired on the original TUDOR folded link bracelet was tightened and is lightly polished, but is in great condition. It has the original 361 end links. It features a 63,2XX serial dating to circa 1984.
This example came from the original owner. The lume on the dial and in the hands is a gorgeous color. The hands were color matched as they had previously been badly relumed. Overall, this is one of the most attractive examples of a manual-wind TUDOR Ranger that I have ever seen!
It does not come with box and papers. The watch recently had a full service.
Gallet Flying Officer Unpolished
This is an incredible example of the rare Gallet Flight Officer (also described as “Flying Officer”) from the 1940s.
The early Gallet Flying Officers were the first chronographs to also incorporate a passive world timer. Examples were famously used by pilots in World War 2 and then-Senator Harry S. Truman famously had one just like this. It is one of the most beautiful sport chronographs ever made. This example is fresh to market and unpolished. It is paired on a gorgeous Gay Freres rivet bracelet from the period. This is one of the earliest known and features a few dial characteristics including radial numbers and a flat case back that are different from the slightly later cases like this one:
The watch appears to be unpolished. The watch is paired on a vintage Rivet bracelet.
This watch does not include the original box and papers, has a manual-wind movement (Caliber 150 made by Venus), and is 34.5mm in diameter. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.
For those looking for a beautiful and extremely cool vintage Gallet, this is one of the best examples I’ve held.
Rolex Turn-O-Graph Reference 6202 USAF w/ Letter of Provenance
This Rolex Turn-O-Graph reference 6202 is a super cool Rolex sports watch from the 1950s. The Turn-O-Graph is the precursor to the mighty Rolex Submariner which was introduced in circa 1953-1954. They are uncommon and a bit mysterious to some, but for those who appreciate Rolex’s historic models the Turn-O-Graph is certainly one to admire.
It features a beautiful gilt dial. It measures 36mm in diameter. The case is lightly polished. It features a 950,XXX serial dating to circa 1953. It features the extremely rare dial with the red depth rating and the original bezel insert which is very uncommon.
It is paired on a Rolex Rivet bracelet dating to 1956.
The watch comes with a letter from the original owner who got it during his service in the United States Air Force while stationed in Tucson.
This watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history but it is running well.
Heuer Complete Calendar Chronograph Unpolished
This vintage Heuer is a really remarkable timepiece. It features a Valjoux 72C calibre with complete calendar chronograph. It features an incredible gilt dial. The steel case is very sharp. It appears to be unpolished. The watch is 35mm. It dates to circa 1945.
The watch does not include box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.
Omega Speedmaster Sapphire Sandwhich 3861 Reference 310.32.40.50.06.001 Full Set Unpolished
The OMEGA Speedmaster is certainly one of the most iconic watches with a truly rich history of exploration and sport. This is a very attractive 310.32.40.50.06.001. It is powered by the calibre 3861. The watch is unpolished.
The watch comes full set with box and papers. It was bought from the Omega Boutique at the Beverly Center in Los Angeles,
To learn more about the OMEGA Speedmaster, you can read my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The OMEGA Speedmaster’ article and corresponding video.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Squadra Hometime 230.2.77 In 18K RG Unpolished
This Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Squadra Hometime 230.2.77 is a very cool and interesting Reverso! The case appears to be unpolished and made of 18K rose gold. It measures 35mm in diameter by 50mm in length. It is paired on a custom Jean Rousseau alligator strap with JLC deployant.
It was formerly the property of an incredibly gorgeous woman. She is way out of Charlie Dunne’s league! It would certainly look incredible on any woman who appreciates the historic Reverso!
We do not know the service history, but it is running well. The watch does not come with box and papers.
Patek Philippe Breguet Dial Reference 1509 In 18K Yellow Gold W/ Extract
This Patek Philippe Reference 1509 is a very special and rare model. The 18k yellow gold case measures 35mm in diameter by 42mm lug to lug. The case has been lightly polished. The dial features the rare applied Breguet numerals. The case features fancy lugs. In 2016, a similar style mode (1503) with black dial Breguet in steel sold for CHF 329,000!
We do not know the service history, but it is running well. The watch does not come with box and papers. It comes with Extract from The Archives.
Rolex Precision “UFO” Reference 9083 w/ Waffle Dial Unpolished
The Rolex 9083 is nicknamed the UFO for its distinct flying-saucer shape. The honeycomb dial is gorgeous and the case is unpolished. The Swiss-made Oyster rivet bracelet appears to be unpolished and is in fantastic and tight condition. Personally, this is the nicest 9083 I have ever seen or held. It is very honest and came from the family of the original owner, who engraved his military ID and Social Security Number on the case back. My understanding is that the original owner purchased this during his military service. It’s hard to find a Rolex UFO in this sort of unpolished and original condition. Often the UFO watches have replaced bracelets, but this is original.
This example features an outstanding white “honeycomb” or “waffle” dial and is non luminous. The textured Rolex dials of the 1950s are very uncommon and particularly important on Rolex models!
This example dates to circa 1958 with a 347,XXX serial.
This watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history but it is running well.
Rolex Datejust Ref 16014 w/ Linen Dial Unpolished
I absolutely love steel Rolex Datejusts. I recently wrote about them in our blog ‘Don't Sleep On This: The Simple Vintage Rolex Datejust In Steel’. I’m constantly amazed by the quality and differentiations of the dials that Rolex used in vintage Datejusts over the decades. I have found the Rolex Datejust to be one of the most versatile watches a person can have and the simplicity in this linen-dial reference 16014 is so beautiful.
The watch dates to circa 1978 with a 5.46M serial. The case measures 36mm in diameter. We believe the case is unpolished.
It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history of this watch, but it is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 3 bar
Audemars Piguet Star Wheel w/ Box & Booklet
The Audemars Piguet Star Wheel has seen a resurgence in popularity since 2023’s reintroduction of the concept within the CODE 11.59 and that is great. It makes us so happy. It is truly a unique format which pays homage to fine watchmaking tradition.
This example features a beautiful guilloche gold dial and the beautful stepped case in 18k yellow gold. The case measures approximately 36mm in diameter (37.5mm lug to lug). The watch is paired on an Audemars Piguet leather strap with AP gold buckle.
This watch comes with box and instructional booklet for the model. We do not know the service history but it is running well.
It also comes with an extra Audemars Piguet strap.
Cartier Paris Tank Normale Reference 78092 Unpolished on Bracelet
The Tank Normale is one of the iconic models within the Cartier Tank family and the original design based on a French tank. It has been particularly special in my career as I was privileged to sell a smaller Tank Normale example that belonged to Jackie Kennedy Onassis during my time as Vice President, Senior Specialist for Christie's.
This particular example is in great condition and dates to the late 1970s early 1980s. The case is made of 18k yellow gold. It measures 23mm wide by 30mm lug to lug. The case appears to be unpolished. The octagonal sapphire cabochon crown features the flattened surface and appears to be original. The Normale has become regained a great deal of attention with its long awaited release. This example is a fantastic deal compared to the new release. It is paired on a beautiful 14k yellow gold brick style bracelet.
It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.
Rolex 36mm Oyster Perpetual Reference 1018 Dauphine Hands Unpolished
The reference 1018 is a rare and oversized Oyster Perpetual model which measures 36mm (43mm lug-to-lug). The 1018 was a reference that was not mass-produced and as a result of its narrow font has become an exciting OP for collectors who appreciate minimal and balanced dials. This example features a grey soleil dials which remains in a fantastic state. Oftentimes, the reference 1018 will show signs of water ingress or feature service dials. This example features the early and rare Dauphine hand set.
The case appears to be unpolished and the watch is paired on a period correct 7206 Rivet bracelet by Rolex dating to 1965 which is in fantastic condition. The watch features a 1.17M serial dating to circa 1965.
To learn more about the Rolex reference 1018, read our Director of Content and Research Charlie Dunne’s article ‘Collector's Guide: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 1018’.
The watch does not come with box and papers. The service history is not known, but it is running great!
Zenith Covergirl El Primero A3818 Unpolished
This Zenith “Covergirl” El Primero reference A3818 is such an incredible chronograph! Collectors can attest to the fact that the Zenith El Primero reference A3818 is one of the most desirable vintage Zenith models. Its nickname "Covergirl" derives from its feature on the cover of the Zenith book by Manfred Rössler.
This example is in fantastic condition. The case appears to be unpolished and the dial/lume is incredible! For those looking for an outstanding blue-dial chronograph, this El Primero is one of my favorite watches on the site!
We do not know the service history, but it is running great. It does not come with box or papers.
Rolex Explorer II Reference 16570 Box & Papers Unpolished
This Rolex Explorer II reference 16570 is a great sports watch. The case appears to be unpolished. The watch features a Y Serial and was sold in 2002. The bracelet features an AD date code dating to 2003 and is likely original to the watch.
The watch comes full set with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar.
TUDOR Ranger Reference 90220 Unpolished
The TUDOR Ranger is an incredible model with a great deal of appreciation for its similarity to the Rolex Explorer with a 3, 6, 9 numeral layout. It is a very rare no-date model and measures 34mm in diameter (41mm lug-to-lug). The dial and hands have a beautiful warm patina. It dates to circa 1984 with a 945,XXX serial. It features an H bracelet code.
The case appears to be unpolished.
It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running great.
Jardur Bezelmeter Unpolished
This Jardur Bezelmeter is a fascinating vintage chronograph from the 1940s. It is engraved "Night Mission, 20th Bomb GP C.J. Nov. 44" and was previously owned by Capt. Charles (Doc) Joyce, of Winchester Massachusetts. Joyce perfoermed heroically as a B-29 pilot during the "Raiden Maiden", 793rd Squadron, 468th Bombardment Group, 20th Bomber Command. His was given the nickname "Doc" for his ability to get badly damaged aircraft safely down.
This example is in great condition. The 37mm case appears to be unpolished.
This watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.
Cartier Ford Motor Co. 75th Anniversary in 18K YG His & Hers
We are thrilled to offer this very cool Cartier His & Hers set. The larger model measures 28mm in diameter. The ladies model measures 20mm. The cases are engraved to Margie and Dale Raines. They were presented from Henry Ford II - aka Hank the Deuce! The dials feature a beautiful blue soliel finish with diamond hour markers.
The watches does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but they are running well. They are paired on the original straps and buckles.
Universal Genève Steel Buckle 1940s 16mm
This Universal Genève buckle dates to the 1940s and measures 16mm in diameter. It is made by Wenger and signed on the profile “UNIVERSAL”. These buckles are very rare and are perfect for pairing on vintage Universal Genève Tri-Compax, time only, or chronograph models. It would also be nice on the later UG Polerouter models. It would also be quite awesome on any 1940s-1950s steel model.
The buckle is made of stainless steel. We have a few examples, so please let us know if you would like more than one and we could potentially work out an epic deal for you and all your UG friends.
It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, because it is a buckle. It probably will not need a service anytime soon.