5 Vintage Heuer Chronographs You Need To Know

By Gavin Galiardo

Heuer (the predecessor of TAG Heuer, which started in 1985) is best known for their chronographs and is a storied brand with sporting legacy unlike any other manufacturer. In 1860, the manufacturer was established in La Chaux-de-Fonds. In 1882, Heuer received its first chronograph patent, and the brand remained steadfast to this complication. Renowned for a legacy of iconic and colorful chronographs associated with a racing history, below is a brief guide to some of the most important vintage Heuer chronographs. 

Image from Ad Patina

  1. The Autavia

In 1933, Heuer introduced the “Autavia” - but not exactly how we recognize it today. The model garnered its name from the combination of auto and aviation. It debuted as a dashboard clock primarily for automobiles, planes and, in some instances, tanks as well as military vehicles! It wasn’t until 1962 that the Autavia would be associated with wristwatches. The model was made in exceptionally legible configurations for the purpose of motorsports racing, cemented itself in racing history through the wrists of racing legends like Jo Siffert, Jochen Rindt, and Mario Andretti.  Throughout the 1960s, the watches were manual-wind and powered by Valjoux movements. In around 1969, the brand switched to the legendary automatic chronograph Calibre 11. The model is recognized by their robust screw down case, later available in a series of GMT models as well. 

Collector Note: There are a wide variety of Heuer Autavias. Eric Wind’s favorite Autavia is the earliest version of the “Jo Siffert” Autavia with CHRONOMATIC printed above the Heuer shield and Charlie Dunne’s favorite is the Autavia GMT reference 1163 with beautiful “Pepsi” bezel insert.

From left to right: Autavia reference 2446, 73463, 1163 “Jo Siffert”

Bottom: Photo from Ad Patina

2. The Carrera

One year after the introduction of the famed Autavia in 1962, Heuer released the Carrera in 1963. The introduction of the Carrera was an effort to add a streamlined and sleek case design - this example void of an external bezel. The vintage Carrera measures approximately 36mm in diameter. These early models are likely what comes to mind when thinking of a classic racing chronograph. This time, the model was named after the legendary and frequently deadly Carrera Panamericana that went through Mexico and ended in 1954.

Collector Note: Arguably the most desirable Carreras are the reference 2447SN “Panda” examples with a silver dial and black registers. Eric has a special affinity for the Carreras with special logos and text on the dial, such as for the Mercury Cougar, Shelby Cobra, MG, and specific famous individuals such as James Garner.

From left to right: Carrera reference 2447SNT, 1553, 2447N. Bottom: Image from Ad Patina

3. The Monaco

The Heuer Monaco was introduced in 1969 with the debut reference 1133B. It was powered by the noteworthy Calibre 11, one of the pioneer movements in automatic chronograph watchmaking. More striking, however, at least to the visual eye, was Monaco's square case, which was water resistant to 100-meter depths. Perhaps most recognizable was Monaco's appearance on the set of Lee H. Katzin’s 1971 film Le Mans, where it was famously worn by Steve McQueen! There are many collectible variants and it is certainly a fan favorite.

Collector Note: The earliest Monacos including those with CHRONOMATIC on the dial had metallic blue paint that often discolored. Although we normally love “mint” examples, Eric finds some of the “paintless wonder” dials to be especially beautiful.

From left to right: Heuer Monaco references: 1133, 1533G, 740303N “Dark Lord”

Bottom: Photo from Ad Patina

4. The Camaro

Often overshadowed by the Autavia, Carrera, and Monaco, the Heuer Camaro is one of the great chronographs of 1960s. By 1967, Heuer was focused primarily on the American market, a culture rich in automotive racing. As a result, Heuer introduced the Camaro, an homage to the American muscle car. The Camaro became a very diverse model with a large range of production, including models in precious metals. The model’s cushion-shaped case is an easy point of identification. The Camaro came out two years before the Monaco and feels like somewhat of a Pre-Monaco - it feels like the Monaco would not have existed without the Camaro preceding it. The Camaro is not currently in TAG Heuer’s lineup, but we find it looks great on wrists of all sizes.

Collector Note: The Camaro is often a small fraction of the price of the Carrera equivalents. We love the Camaros with the CHAMPION logos on the dial (Bob Woodward even wore one!) and those made for the winners of the 1967 American Road Race of Champions.

From left to right: Heuer Camaro references: 73643NT, 73343S, 73343N “Champion”

Bottom: Image from Ad Patina

5. The Heuer Mareographe / Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer

The Seafarer one may come as a bit of a surprise, as the dial is signed by the prestigious retailer Abercrombie & Fitch as opposed to the manufacturer (Heuer). This was customary of the time, and Heuer and Abercrombie had enjoyed a working relationship since the 1940s. The Seafarer is actually the marriage of a three-register chronograph and another watch, referred to as the Solunar, which was meant to calculate the best hunting and fishing times based on Solunar theory. The Seafarer keeps the tide time in conjunction with the novelty of a chronograph function. While the Heuer-signed chronographs are more recognized as iconic models from brand, the Abercrombie Seafarer remains the deep-cut grail for vintage Heuer enthusiasts. We see more Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarers than Heuer Mareographes, which is the equivalent model made under the Heuer name.

Collector Note: All Seafarer and Mareographe examples are very rare. We are somewhat partial to the Carrera-cased 2447SF that dates to the mid-1960s.

Left to right: Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer references 346, 2444, 2443

Bottom: Seafarer reference 2444

Wind Vintage has become the premier destination for buying and selling vintage Heuer chronographs. If you are on the hunt for any rare Heuers or looking to sell any Heuer (or Abercrombie & Fitch) watches, please contact us at info@windvintage.com

Eric Wind