What's Selling Here - October 31, 2025
By Charlie Dunne
Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer Ref 346 Unpolished
Before Abercrombie & Fitch was the “middle of the mall store” as Jeff Stein coined it, the company was the preeminent destination for outdoor sporting apparel. Among the high-quality goods you would expect to find were the incredible sports watches by Heuer. The most desirable models from the retailer would be the Seafarer.
It is estimated that a total of 10-15 examples of the reference 346 were produced. It features a 2nd execution dial variant with the radium-filled Arabic numerals 11,12, and 1, with round hour markers. This particular example is in fantastic condition and has a beautiful dial.
The watch features a Valjoux 71 movement which was modified to incorporate a tide complication. The case is unpolished. It measures in at 37.5mm wide (44mm lug-to-lug). The lug width is 20mm and the height is 14.5mm (including the crystal). The watch is paired on a contemporary beads of rice bracelet.
The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running great.
Rolex Gilt Dial Explorer I Ref 1016
The Rolex Explorer reference 1016 is one of the purest expressions of watch design, and it is for this reason that I am probably asked for vintage Explorer reference 1016s more than any other watch. This model features a gilt with attractive lume. The second hand is slightly darker lume, but appears to be original. The watch features a 1.37M serial dating to circa 1966. The case is 36mm in diameter. It has been lightly polished. It is paired on a Rolex 7206 Oyster bracelet dating to 1965 with 58 end links.
The watch does not include box or papers, has an automatic movement (Caliber 1570 made by Rolex). We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar.
Rolex Black Dial Air-King Reference 5500 Unpolished
This Rolex Air-King reference 5500 is an amazing watch. The steel case is 34mm. It appears to be unpolished. The watch features an R serial dating to circa 1987. It features an uncommon black dial.
The watch does not come with box or papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running great! It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar.
Rolex Black Dial Zenith Daytona 16528 in 18K YG w/ Box, Booklet & Hangtag Unpolished
The “Zenith Daytonas” have appreciated significantly the last few years as people respect the modified Zenith El Primero movements that Rolex used for their first automatic Daytonas starting in 1988 until circa 2000.
This is a super attractive Rolex Zenith Daytona 16528 in 18k yellow gold. The watch features the black dial variant and is very legible. The case features a W serial dating to circa 1995. The case appears to be unpolished. It is powered by the automatic movement (Caliber 4030 made by Zenith). It measures 40mm in diameter.
This watch comes with box, hangtag and booklet. It does not come with papers.
Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655 Unpolished
Rolex introduced the Explorer II reference 1655 for use by spelunkers (cave diving) and speleologists (cave researchers) where the use of a 24-hour hand is important for the wearer to be able to differentiate between night and day. These watches also have the nickname ‘Freccione’ meaning ‘big arrow’ in Italian and are sometimes falsely called the “Steve McQueen” despite no evidence he ever owned or wore one. A slow seller when initially released, the reference 1655 has gained a cult following due its unusual and distinctive design. The reference 1655 is one of the references I am asked most often to find for collectors.
This example is one of the nicest Explorer II reference 1655 I have had the pleasure of offering. It dates to circa 1979 (6.2 million serial number). The case appears to be unpolished. It has outstanding lume.
The watch is paired on 78360 Oyster bracelet with correct 580 end links with a VE date code dating to circa 1980 and is likely original to the watch.
The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 1 bar.
Rolex Datejust Underline Dial 1601 in 18K Gold
This Rolex Datejust reference 1601 is an attractive timepiece in 18k gold. It appears to be yellow gold, but is rosey The watch dates to circa 1964 with a 1.00M serial. It features an underline dial designating the transition to tritium lume. The case has been lightly polished.
We do not know the service history, but the watch is running well. It does not come with a box or papers. It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar.
Breitling Chronomatic GMT Ref. 2115 on Bracelet Unpolished
This is a fantastic Breitling Chronomatic GMT in stainless steel. The large case measures 47mm in diameter and approximately 48mm lug-to-lug. The watch features a rotating bezel to track additional time zones as well as a chronograph complication and date at 6 o’clock. The size of the watch and orange handset make it highly legible despite the array of various functions. The case is unpolished. It is paired on the ultra rare mesh Breitling bracelet. Breitling collectors will bow down to you when they witness the glorious bracelet. These watches are very large and aggressive designs that are incredible fun to wear.
This watch does not come with a box or papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec Limited Edition Box & Papers
This Blancapin Fifty Fathoms reference 5008-11B30 was made in collaboration in a limited run of 500 pieces. At 40.7mm in diameter, thisdive watch pays homage to the watches made for the US Navy in the past. It features a unidirectional sapphire crystal bezel and a gloss-like dial. It also features an orange moisture indicator.
It comes as a “full set” with the original box and papers. We do not know the service history, but the watch is running well.
Heuer Autavia GMT Reference 1163
In my opinion, the Heuer Autavias are some of the best buys in vintage watches. They feature very large cases which are very enjoyable on the wrist. This case which measures 43mm in diameter (47mm lug-to-lug). It has been polished in the past. The insert is very attractive. The dial is in fantastic condition and the hands give off a brilliant overall look.
It does not come with box and papers. It was recently serviced and is running well.
Heuer Autavia GMT Ref 741.603
In our opinion, the Heuer Autavias are some of the best buys in vintage watches. They feature very large cases, which are very enjoyable on the wrist. This reference features a stainless steel case which measures 42mm in diameter (approximately 47.5mm lug-to-lug). The bezel insert displays a strong blue and red color. The GMT hand is in a contrasting yellow color. The watch is paired with a black rally strap. It appears to have been polished.
It does not come with a box or papers. We do not know the service history, but the watch is running well.
Rolex Two-Tone Champagne Datejust 16013 Unpolished
This two-tone Rolex Datejust reference 16013 is an attractive timepiece. It features a very nice champagne dial. The case measures 36mm in diameter. The case appears to be unpolished. The watch dates to circa 1987 with a R52 serial. The caseback is engraved with a beautiful note “My Love for All Time Nancy 1988”.
This watch does not include the box and papers.We do not know the service history, but it is running great! It recently passed a water test of 5 bar.
This watch will be available at Net-A-Porter.
Rolex Non-Luminous Datejust Reference 1601 Unpolished
This is an incredibly cool Rolex Datejust reference 1601 with a the uncommon non-luminous dial! The case appears to be unpolished. It measures 36mm in diameter (43mm lug-to-lug). The watch has a 3.08M serial number dating the watch to circa 1972.
The bracelet will fit a wrist up to 6.8 inches. It does not feature a date code and is the correct style.
We do not know the service history but it is running well. The watch comes does not come with box and papers. It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar.
This watch is available at KITH.
Rolex Ladies Datejust Silver Dial Ref. 6919 Unpolished
This Rolex Ladies Datejust reference 6919 is a great stainless steel example. It features a silver dial and a stainless steel engine-turned bezel. We believe the case is unpolished. The watch features a 6.4M serial number dating to circa 1979. It measures 26mm in diameter. It is paired with a steel Jubilee bracelet with a D clasp code also dating to circa 1979 that is presumably original to the watch.
It does not come with a box and papers. We do not know the service history of this watch, but it is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar.
THIS WATCH WILL BE AVAILABLE AT NET-A-PORTER
Rolex Ladies Datejust Blue Dial Ref. 6917 in 18K Yellow Gold Unpolished
This Rolex Ladies Datejust reference 6917 is a beautiful example. It has an 18k yellow gold case and bracelet, with a blue luminous dial. The case appears to be unpolished. The watch features an 8.2M serial number dating to circa 1984. It measures 26mm in diameter. It is paired with a gold Jubilee bracelet with a G clasp code dating to circa 1982 but this bracelet likely original to the watch.
It does not come with a box and papers. We do not know the service history of this watch, but it is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Time Only Model in 18K RG NOS
This is an incredible vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre in 18k rose gold. The case is unpolished. It is in like new condition dating to the 1950s. It measures 34mm in diameter. It is paired on what appears to be the original strap and a gold-plated buckle made by Wenger.
The watch is a very elegant timepiece that reminds me of some of the 1950s Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet models. It has very attractive applied even-Arabic numerals with beautiful arrow markers seen on many JLCs and similar to the Rolex Padellone. Finding beautiful time-only Jaeger-LeCoultre models like is extremely difficult and they are among the most beautiful dress watches.
This watch does not come with box and papers. To me, this is one of the most beautiful vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre models, and I hope the next owner appreciates it as much as I do.
TUDOR Big Block Montecarlo Oysterdate Chronograph Reference 94300 w/ Service Card
This TUDOR chronograph is a great sporty chronograph and highly practical. The watch measures approximately 40mm in diameter and 47.5mm lug-to-lug. The serial number dates to circa 1979. It is paired with a 78360 Oyster bracelet with a Tudor clasp. The watch features a black dial with tritium luminous hour markers. It features an orange chronograph hand and accents, as well as a date window at 3 o’clock.
We do not know the service history, but the watch is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar. It does not come with the original box or papers. It comes with a service card from TUDOR.
Rolex PCG Submariner Ref 5512
The Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic watches of all time. This reference 5512 features a 764,XXX serial number dating to circa 1962. This example features the early PCG or Pointed Crown Guards case style.
It features a gilt dial. The case has been polished. It is paired on a later Rolex C&I bracelet. The bracelet has been polished. The dial and hands have been relumed. The bezel insert is a later replacement. the case tube and crown are later service replacement parts.
The watch is not perfect, but it is a very fair price and someone will be happy to own a gilt-Submainer for cheap.
According to Rolex, the Submariner reference 5512’s production consisted of only 17,338 examples. The Submariner reference 5513’s production consisted of a much larger amount, 151,449 examples!
Both Eric and I were quite astonished at the number of 5512 Submariners produced being a mere 17,338, as we assumed it was much larger - in the tens of thousands. In simplified terms, there was only just about one 5512 produced for every ten 5513s produced (or 11.4% specifically).
We do not know the service history, but the watch is running well. The amplitude is a little low, it will likely need a service at some point down the road. It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar. It does not come with papers. It does come with a period correct box.
Learn more about reference 5512 within Charlie Dunne’s article ‘Collector’s Guide: Understanding The Rolex Submariner Reference 5512’.
To learn more about the Rolex Submariner, you can read my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner’ article and corresponding video.
Rolex Red Submariner Ref 1680 Full Set
This Rolex Submariner reference 1680 dates to circa 1971 with a 2.86M serial number. The dial features the highly desired red Submariner text. The case has been lightly polished. It measures 40mm in diameter. It features the original bezel insert. It is paired with an original 9315 bracelet with 280 end links dated 4th quarter 1970.
To learn more about the Rolex Submariner, you can read my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner’ article and corresponding video.
The watch comes with box and papers. We do not know the service history but it is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3514 18k YG w/ Box Unpolished
The Patek Philippe reference 3514 is an incredibly elegant dress watch. This example is in 18k yellow gold. The reference 3514 features a date window at 3 o’clock. The watch measures approximately 34mm in diameter and 40mm lug to lug. This is a super attractive and versatile dress watch from one of watchmaking's most storied manufacturers. The dial is in outstanding condition. The case appears to be unpolished. It is paired on a Patek Philippe strap and gold buckle.
For those looking for an amazing Patek Philippe, this is a seriously cool watch.
We do not know the service history, but the watch is running well. It does not come with papers. It does come with a box.
OMEGA Speedmaster Ref. 105.012 W/ Extract + Service Papers Unpolished
The OMEGA Speedmaster is certainly one of the most iconic watches with a truly rich history of exploration and sport. The model was first introduced in 1957, initially created for drivers in automotive racing. However, it would reach iconic status by eventually reaching spaceflight qualification by NASA, amongst several of the highest-grade chronographs of its era. This 105.012 is a great vintage reference.
The reference 105.012 was the first Speedmaster with crown and pusher guards, garnering the “Professional” name on the dial for the case upgrade. It was the first asymmetrical case to be released in the Speedmaster line from 1963 to 1966.
The dial and hands have been relumed. The crown is a replacement. It will need a service.
The case appears unpolished.
To learn more about the Omega Speedmaster, you can watch ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Entire Lineage Of The Omega Speedmaster’ video I made with Ben Clymer in 2015 (and corresponding article).
The watch does not come with a box or papers. It does come with an extract from the OMEGA Extract from the Archives as well as service papers dating to 2022.
Rolex Root Beer GMT-Master Ref 1675 Unpolished
This Rolex “Root Beer” GMT-Master reference 1675 is an awesome model which has become more appreciated by collectors in recent years. This example dates to circa 1977 with a 3.82M serial. The watch features a very attractive dial and bezel insert. It is paired on a Rolex oval link bracelet. The case appears to be unpolished.
To learn more about the Rolex GMT-Master you can watch my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex GMT-Master' video and corresponding article.
It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. The watch recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar.
Heuer Carrera Reference 1553 on GF Bracelet
This Heuer Carrera reference 1553 N with a blue dial is a fantastic sports chronograph in stainless steel. The watch features a tachymeter on the inner bezel, with a stark orange contrast chronograph hand. It is paired with a Gay Frères beads of rice bracelet for Heuer which is dated to 1972 and correct. The case has been lightly polished.
It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.
Cartier Tank Normale in 18K YG
The Tank Normale is one of the iconic models within the Cartier Tank family and the original design based on a French tank. It has been particularly special in my career as I was privileged to sell a smaller Tank Normale example that belonged to Jackie Kennedy Onassis during my time as Vice President, Senior Specialist for Christie's.
This Cartier Tank Normale in 18k yellow gold is an elegant dress watch with one of the most distinctive profiles in the history of watchmaking. The case measures approximately 30mm by 23mm. The watch features a classic Roman numerals dial with blue sword hands and a rare octagonal sapphire cabochon crown.
It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.
This watch will be available at Net-A-Porter.
Rolex Tropical Tapestry Dial Datejust 16220 Full Set
I absolutely love steel Rolex Datejusts. I recently wrote about them in our blog ‘Don't Sleep On This: The Simple Vintage Rolex Datejust In Steel’. I’m constantly amazed by the quality and differentiations of the dials that Rolex used in vintage Datejusts over the decades. I have found the Rolex Datejust to be one of the most versatile watches a person can have. This example has an outstanding tropical tapestry dial which is beautiful.
The watch dates to 2000 and features a P serial. The case measures 36mm in diameter. It has been polished.
The watch comes full set with box and papers. We do not know the service history of this watch, but it is running well. It recently passed a water test of 5 bar.
Rolex Daytona Reference 6241
This is a cool Rolex Daytona reference 6241. dial has some staining near the edges, and some paint loss in the subdials, but is a raw watch. It was purchased by a collector at a Rolex retailer for approximately $90,000. It features the original Mk 1 bezel insert with the hooked 200. It has period-correct pusher which we added to it recently
The watch dates to circa 1968 and features a 1.99M serial number. The dial is in remarkable condition. The case has been polished in the past. It is paired on a 7205 Rolex bracelet with 60 end links. The bracelet dates to 1970.
For those looking for a nice four-digit Daytona that doesn’t break the bank, this is an awesome watch.
The watch does not come box and papers. We do not know the service history of this watch, but it is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar.
Rolex Meters First Dial Submariner 5513
The Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic watches of all time. This reference 5513 features a 1.58M serial number dating to circa 1967. It is paired with a Rolex C&I stretch rivet bracelet dating to 1966. This example features a “meters first” matte dial with extremely attractive tritium lume. It has been polished but is very attractive overall.
Learn more about the sibling model reference 5512 within Charlie Dunne’s article ‘Collector’s Guide: Understanding The Rolex Submariner Reference 5512’.
To learn more about the Rolex Submariner, you can read my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner’ article and corresponding video.
We do not know the service history, but the watch is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 3 bar. It does not come with the original box or papers.
Rolex Black Dial Zenith Daytona Ref. 16520 Full Set Unpolished
This Rolex Zenith Daytona Reference 16520 is an outstanding stainless steel sports chronograph. It features a T serial number, which dates to circa 1995. It is paired with a reference 78390 Oyster bracelet with a V clasp code dating to circa 1996 and is likely original to the watch. The case and bracelet are in fantastic condition and appear to be unpolished. The watch features a case-back sticker. It measures 40mm in diameter.
The watch comes as a “full set” with original box and papers. It was originally sold in 1997. We do not know the service history, but the watch is running well. It may need a service in the future. It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar.
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5056P Power Reserve Grey Dial in Platinum Box & Papers Unpolished
This Patek Philippe reference 5056 annual calendar is a very special and complicated timepiece. The platinum case measures approximately 37mm in diameter. The case appears to be unpolished. The watch is powered by the calibre 315 S IRM QA LU. It features the very attractive grey dial with luminous Roman numerals and leaf hands.
The watch comes with box and Certificate of Origin. We do not know the service history but it is running well. It was produced in 2003. It comes with its original platinum tang buckle.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Night & Day Ref. 272.8.51
This Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface is a great watch with a two dial configuration. The first is white dial with small seconds and Arabic numerals, while the second is a grey dial that features a 24-hour day and night indicator. The stainless steel case measures 26x42mm in diameter. The watch is paired with a brown leather strap and a JLC folding deployant clasp. The case has been lightly polished.
It does not include boxes or papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.
Rolex Grey Dial Datejust Reference 16030 Unpolished Full Set
I absolutely love steel Rolex Datejusts. I recently wrote about them in our blog ‘Don't Sleep On This: The Simple Vintage Rolex Datejust In Steel’. I’m constantly amazed by the quality and differentiations of the dials that Rolex used in vintage Datejusts over the decades. I love the steel engined turned bezel on these classic stainless steel models.
This watch features a quickest date movement. The dial is a very attractive slate grey. The reference 16030 is notable for its stainless steel engine-turned bezel. The watch features a 9.0M serial number, which dates to circa 1986. The watch is paired with a 62510H Jubilee bracelet with an H date code dating to circa 1983, as well as the correct 555 end links (it is possibly original to the watch). The watch is in incredible condition and appears to be unpolished.
The watch recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar. We do not know the service history, but the watch is running well. It comes full set with box and papers.
Rolex Digital Dial Datejust Reference 16200
I absolutely love steel Rolex Datejusts. I recently wrote about them in our blog ‘Don't Sleep On This: The Simple Vintage Rolex Datejust In Steel’. I’m constantly amazed by the quality and differentiations of the dials that Rolex used in vintage Datejusts over the decades.
This reference 16200 features a Rolex “digital” dial with Arabic numerals.
The watch dates to 1997 and features a U serial. The case measures 36mm in diameter and is paired on a 62510H Rolex Jubilee bracelet with an M clasp coding dating to circa 1988 and 555B end links which is likely original to the watch. The case has been lightly polished.
It does not come with a box or papers. We do not know the service history of this watch, but it is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar.
Rolex GMT-Master Ref 1675 w/ Box & Booklet Unpolished
The Rolex GMT-Master was originally designed for Pan Am pilots in the 1950s and continues to be a flagship model for Rolex to this day. The reference 1675 was introduced in 1959 and remained in production until 1980.
This Rolex GMT-Master reference 1675 is a collector favorite reference in recent years. With a 2.82million serial number, this example dates to circa 1971. It comes with a reference 7836 folded link Oyster bracelet that dates to 1971 with 280 end-links. The bezel insert has faded to an attractive light blue and pink color. The case appears to be unpolished.
It does not come with papers. The watch comes with a box and a booklet. We do not know the service history, but the watch is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar.
To learn more about the Rolex GMT-Master you can watch the ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex GMT-Master' video and corresponding article I produced. You can also read our comprehensive article ‘Collector's Guide: The Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675 In Steel’.
Rolex Day-Date Reference 1802 in 18K YG
This Rolex Day-Date reference 1802 is a fantastic example in yellow gold. Unlike the reference 1803, the reference 1802 features a smooth bezel. It measures 36mm in diameter. It features a 2.5M serial dating to circa 1971. The watch has a white dial that is in phenomenal condition. The case and bracelet have been polished.
The watch does not come with a box or papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running great. It recently passed a water resistance test of 1 bar.
Rolex Submariner 5513 White Metal Surrounds Unpolished
The Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic watches of all time. This reference 5513 features a 8.5M serial number dating to circa 1984. It is paired with a reference 93150 Oyster bracelet with an I clasp code dating to circa 1984. It has the correct 580 end-links. This example features a white metal surrounds dial, where the tritium lume has turned an attractive warm color. The case appears to be unpolished.
Learn more about the sibling model reference 5512 within Charlie Dunne’s article ‘Collector’s Guide: Understanding The Rolex Submariner Reference 5512’.
To learn more about the Rolex Submariner, you can read my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner’ article and corresponding video.
We do not know the service history, but the watch is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar. It does not come with the original box or papers.
 
          
        
       
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
             
            